1/1 - 1/7: Krakow, Poland

January 18, 2019

1/1 - 1/7: Krakow, Poland

Mike's Time to Read: 4 minutes, 36 seconds

Krakow, In Brief

“Poland? …In winter?” should have been my response when my mom suggested Krakow as her destination of choice when planning our trip to Europe months ago. But, armed with pride in being from Wisconsin and the subsequent ability to not feel cold, I foolishly gave a response of approval and commented that it couldn’t be worse than what we’re used to. Departing the snowy country, I have a new understanding of why nobody visits Krakow in January, as well as a new appreciation for clothing made of wool and modern down jackets.

The chilly weather of Krakow quickly became a theme of our trip. Looking at the forecasts, temperatures ranging from 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit didn’t seem too tough. Pack a jacket, scarf, hat and mittens, and you should be plenty warm, right? Wrong. What the weather reports failed to include was that no amount of clothing could stop the piercing wind; as a Notre Dame student, the permacloud follows you wherever you go; and, finally, any forecasts without snow would just be wrong. Add on that Krakow is best seen on foot and its main market area is a wide open square and you begin to see why our decisions as to what restaurants, shops, and churches to visit were made by answering the question, “Well, is it warm in there?”

For as bone chilling as the weather was, there is something particularly beautiful about Krakow in the dead of winter. For one, the landscape is remarkable. On clear days, you can catch glimpses of the white-capped mountain ranges on the outskirts of the city. On seemingly all other days, the constantly falling snow added a level of sparkle and magic reminiscent of a Winter Wonderland. This, and the lack of crowds, may be reason alone to plan a trip in winter.

The real beauty of Krakow’s winter weather, however, was in the tangible feeling it gave to the complex history of the city and its Polish residents. A country challenged by immense tragedy, oppressive occupation, and tough times economically, wounds of their past are still visible. Despite hard times, the people of Krakow have great pride in their vibrant Polish culture and faith in religious traditions which shine forth everyday in the hospitality, energy, and joy they demonstrated throughout the week that we had the pleasure of being with them. So for what it’s worth, our bodies may have been cold, but the beauty in that hope and joy warmed our hearts.

Highlights

Auschwitz-Birkenau: Located a 2 hour drive from Krakow, a visit to the remains and now museum of the Nazi extermination camp of Auschwitz was as challenging as it would seem. One cannot truly prepare to walk around the place where thousands of human lives were lost everyday and countless others tortured. The grounds alone were powerful. Seeing rooms like the one Fr. Kolbe and others spent the last nights of their lives were tangible reminders of the atrocities. Mass collections of personal items like articles of clothing forced you to confront the immense scale of the Holocaust. It was remarkably humbling. It feels wrong to label such an experience as positive in any sense, but in the reflection following our visit, sobered by what we had seen, I had a renewed gratitude for the freedoms to life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness that I am offered as an American, as well as a duty to promote and enhance the human dignity of all persons. In a world that is often portrayed as broken and beaten down, visiting Auschwitz and hearing stories of the attitude of hope many of those oppressed and violated chose to maintain is an uplifting reminder to do likewise and view the world through the lens of hope in Christ and better times ahead. For those who have the opportunity, visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau is a once in a lifetime experience. (And if you have extra time, stop to see the Black Madonna at Czestochowa afterwards…a beautiful and energizing way to end the intense day.)

Rating: Must Experience

Royal Chamber Orchestra Concert: Discovered by way of a Lonely Planet guide, this hidden gem of Krakow was quite a sight to see — four women dressed in black formal attire and wielding their stringed instruments collaborated to recreate beautiful classics from masterminds like Mozart and Chopin. Though upper, attic-like room where it was located was underwhelming, the acoustics were not. But instead of just describing it, experience a taste of the magic yourself with this voice recording of my personal favorite, Gabriel’s Oboe, I took during the performance. I have set the music to accompany a collection of photos for ambient effects. If the four performers were indicative of the charm and sophistication of all Polish women, I may have to make a return trip to Krakow if finding an Irish lass does not work out as Mike predicted. Enjoy the beauty that is the Royal Chamber Orchestra. As it said on the program, “Visiting Krakow and not experiencing the Royal Chamber Orchestra is a sin.” I agree.

Rating: Do it for the Blog

Pope John Paul II Pilgrimage and Life Tour: For both Catholics and non-Catholics alike, a visit to Krakow would be remiss, and not to mention nearly impossible, without seeing sights of and interacting with the history of Karol Wojtyla’s life. The lasting image and effects of man whose love for God, humanity, and life cannot be quantified can be found all throughout the city and countryside. While visits to churches, statues, and landmarks of his life could fill weeks of travel, our travels took us to his hometown of Wadowice, cathedrals where he preached in Krakow, and the newly established JP2 sanctuary. Those three sights, packed full of history, beautiful architecture, and serene places for prayer were definite highlights of the trip. (And while on your way to the JP2 sanctuary, a stop at the sight of Divine Mercy is well worth it!)

Rating: Must Experience

Wieliczka Salt Mine: The oldest still operating salt mine in the world, Wieliczka is a major attraction for visitors to Krakow. The tour featured the first three levels of the salt mine, as well as some interesting history about Krakow, the process of mining salt, and the occasional underground chapel. But unless you or a loved one has an obsession with salt that borders on romantic love, I’d skip this day filler.

Rating: Tripadvisor Approved? Fake News.

Segment(s)

Fast Facts, Vol. 1 - Krakow

To give you an idea of just how Catholic the country of Poland, and Krakow in particular, is here are some numbers we were repeatedly informed of by our lovely guide, Monica:

There are 132 active places of worship in Krakow.
Of those 132, 130 are Catholic, 1 is Presbyterian, and 1 is Jewish.
Of the entire population in Poland, roughly 92% are affiliated with the Catholic Church.
There are over 600 statues of Pope John Paul II in Poland.

The Last Word

For those who know him, Krakow, Poland's essence is best described by my roommate Jack: Cheap, cold, and odd at first, but as you get to know him, you begin to appreciate his nuances, the depths of his character, and the uniqueness of his personality. Thank you, Prof. Majchrowski.

Cheers!
Andrew (and Mike)

Additional pictures from the trip: